Guest post by Joe Plumb

It sounds almost impossible, but it’s true…a group of twelve young footballers, between the ages of 16-18yrs, travelled to the North East of England for a two-week football tour.  They had a punishing schedule, playing twelve matches in just fourteen days in the UK, against schools in Durham, Newcastle, Sunderland, Bishop Auckland, Darlington, Bedlington, Ashington, Hartlepool and Stockton-on-Tees, winning ten games and losing two, due to tiredness and adverse weather conditions which made it very difficult for the young  Loretans to show their innate talent.

The trip was organized as an intercultural exchange between schools in the North East of England and the work in Iquitos of Joe Plumb, Projects Coordinator of “The Peru Mission”. The lads were looked at by talent scouts from Newcastle United, Manchester United and Middlesbrough FC, and some valuable links were forged for future good relations between football scene in Loreto and the English league sides.

The young Peruvian footballers from “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista“, visited Manchester United’s training ground, Carrington, and met Ecuadorian signing Antonio Valencia, Michael Carrick; Korean player, Ji Sung Park and at Newcastle United, the Argentinian, Jonas Gutierrez, who all talked to them about the importance of studying, getting an education, staying out of trouble with alcohol, drugs or gangs, and not forgetting the values taught them by their parents and local communities. They spoke of the importance of being proud of your roots and the poverty you have progressed out of.

“It was great”, says Joe, “…that these successful professional footballers, massive role models for the young footballers, spoke so movingly to young lads from their own Latin American continent about the need for humility mixed with dignity, for responsibility and good citizenship, mentioning responsible parenthood, being sensible and responsible in their actions as regards all that the modern world offers young people…in their case, quick money, fame, drugs, girlfriends. Antonio Valencia spoke about his mother, his brothers and sisters back home in his barrio on the outskirts of Guayaquil, Ecuador, and said that he owed them everything and wanted to make them proud of him by showing people in Europe and the rest of the world that he was a serious, responsible, worldly-wise professional. Better than a thousand talks from me…”

The logistics.

Each of the schools we played against in the UK put up one thousand five hundred pounds for the air-fares and Minsteracres, a local Passionist monastery, gave us the use of their youth centre. We spent two nights in a YMCA too.

Food was provided by local people who made cakes, donated biscuits, bread, meat, fish, vegetables and fruit, as well as money which people donated to pay for a mini-bus to get ourselves around in. The main thing was to make sure the lads got a good plateful of rice (cooked with oil, salt and garlic) each day at lunchtime, preferably with chicken or fish, otherwise they were NOT happy-chaps. The schools invited us to lunch each day so we really only had to find the lads’ breakfast and evening meal. If rice wasn’t on the menu in the school, my wife, Gina Melissa, (who’s from Nauta and therefore makes rice just like at home), and myself, had to get up at 5:30am and rustle up a big pan-full of fried rice before we left for our day in a school, playing football and engaging in classes. If we didn’t, I think I’d have had a rebellion on my hands!

Awareness of Environmental and Human Rights Abuses.

In each school we also gave a presentation about Peru and in particular about Loreto-it’s beauty, its’ wealth of natural resources, its’ importance in the global picture and its’ needs and problems.

With the help of a young environmental rights lawyer, GianCarlo Martin Vasquez Flores, we showed a power-point presentation of about 10 minutes which highlighted the problems of contamination of the rivers by the oil companies, (affecting the indigenous peoples’ lifestyles, hunting and fishing), the problem of illegal wood-felling and exportation, the lack of a decent education or health-care system here and other related social problems. The footballers also exhibited a local folklore dance, “The Ayahuasca” or “The Anaconda” and talked about their lives, their families, their beliefs, and their aspirations for the future.    In smaller groups the students then got to know each other, despite the language barrier, and discussed the points of similarity and the differences between the two countries-these discussions touched upon faith and belief, social problems which affect both societies such as alienation of youth, marginalization of poorer sections of society, globalization and the multi-nationals, climate change and global warming, the drugs problem-importation/exportation, demand and production…the teachers in the school were amazed at how well-informed and concerned their own students were in these areas! It seems they are not given that much room to discuss their opinions about these issues in the National Curriculum in British schools!

Documents.

The British Embassy were very helpful with the visa process. We stayed in a large house belonging to some friends in Barranco and trained each day against the local district side whilst we had our interviews, waited for our visas to come through and for the flight date to the UK.

The Trip of a Lifetime

The young players suffered with the cold weather in the North of England, playing some games in the cold and rain wearing gloves, woolly hats and even scarves. They missed home, the tasty food of Loreto, their friends from the “barrio” and their girlfriends, although at the last-night party some friendships were made, as nostalgia took over and even now, one or two of the lads talk to their “English roses” of Messenger or FaceBook on a regular basis.  The girls in Lanchester and Consett area were particularly welcoming to the Peruvian footballers, and in a strange adaptation of “Panteleon y Las Visitadoras,” came to visit them at their lodgings on a few occasions, ostensibly to practice their Spanish!

The Birth of a South American Barrio Football Project

Joe Plumb, who is now the Honorary British Consul in Iquitos (Loreto Region), was parish priest of the parish of San Pedro Pescador in Bellavista, Nanay for eight years, from 2000-2008 and that’s where he decided that setting up a local barrio football team was a good option to keep youngsters out of trouble.
“I’d walk around the barrio and see the same young men lying in a hammock or sitting in a rocking chair in the middle of the day. At night, after playing a couple of games of football and winning a sol or two for their plate of “arroz chaufa con huevo” (fried rice and an egg), they’d be drinking cheap aguardiente (neat white spirit) in the disco-bars, getting into knife or machete fights, and despite being without work, they were often fathers by the age of sixteen or seventeen, to girls around the same age. The girls too, would then have to finish their secondary education to have their babies.
We got some of the local folk together to look at these issues and how we could maybe respond. It was mainly the fathers of these lads, and a few local businessmen in Bellavista, and we decided it had to be something that would enthuse the lads, so we started up a team which had been dormant for some years, “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista”.

I wrote to some friends in the UK to help with funding, we looked for some local assistance from businesses and got started, buying a football strip, boots, shin-pads, footballs, and finding a local coach.

The lads are from all over the city and beyond now. “We have a player from CaballoCocha, several from Nauta and a couple who are members of the Bora tribe from Padre Cocha. The majority are from Punchana, Bellavista, El Terminal, San Juan, Morona Cocha, etc…I find the best players, the most physically fit and tenacious are from the barrios” says Joe, who goes along to training most days to let the lads know that, as Club President, he’s keeping an eye on things.

In exchange for turning up for training each day for a month from 2pm-4pm, on the pitch at the back of the Regional Hospital, the lads receive some assistance with their studies.

“In seven years of running the Club, we have turned out around fifty carpenters, solderers, motor-maintenance mechanics, electricians, a technical nurse or two, a couple of heavy-machinery drivers and we have two or three lads at present who are at the National University of the Peruvian Amazon (UNAP) or at the Scientific University of Peru (UCP), studying Forestry Engineering, Psychology and Hotel and Tourism.

Not every story is a success, some lads have not responded as we would’ve liked and carried on in their gang-member life-style, just drinking, fighting, using drugs and getting girls pregnant. They had to be separated from the Project. It’s tough love, but people don’t make sacrifices and give funds to have some wise-guy laugh in your face,” said Joe, who after eleven years living here, has learnt a lot about the idiosyncrasies of the Amazon people and about the difficulties of working with people living in extreme poverty.

“Sometimes their social circle or family doesn’t let them aspire to better themselves. There’s a lot of jealousy and envy in Peruvian society. If life is going well for someone, there’s never a lack of folk wishing them ill and hoping to see them fail. Also, when you’ve lived hand to mouth all your life, when you have the possibility of climbing up the ladder a bit, it sometimes seems scary and you decide to stick with what you know.

They call it “conformismo” here, sometimes it’s about just being happy and content with what you have, and that’s where maybe Peruvians could teach us Westerners a thing or two; other times it’s the inability to think beyond today and the next meal because you’ve never had the resources to be able to. It’s understandable really.”

We have won the District League in Punchana five times and have won the Provincial Copa Peru twice, once travelling to Requena and once to Indiana, where our pathway to glory was stopped by dubious refereeing and a series of other factors.

“Unlike when you got to play in Europe, success in football here is as much a case of being a step ahead of your opponent off the pitch, as on it,” says Joe, who’s learnt to be just as cunning as the other local league and provincial officials. “In the days before an important game you have to have eyes and ears everywhere, to stay up to date on what tricks the other Clubs might be up to.”

Cultural Visits

Durham Cathedral

A real history lesson for the whole group, talking about the Vikings, the Normans and the Roman Empire, St.Cuthbert’s tomb and the monastic Christian tradition. They lapped it up and we talked about Henry VIII, the film, “BraveHeart”, and “Harry Potter” (part of it was filmed in the “Quad” at Durham Cathedral). Peruvian history lessons concentrate mainly on South American history understandably, the history of the Inca Empire, and the battles against Chile, with some time, but not much, spent on the American Civil War, the Spanish Civil War, World War I and II.

Sunday Lunch at My Mum and Dad’s House and  “the Pub”

The football tour included social visits, such as Sunday lunch at Joe’s mum and dad’s house, where his family had slogged away all morning to provide salmon, beef and chicken dishes plus vegetables, gravy and all the trimmings, and just in case, a HUGE bowl of rice. The lads ate two or three platefuls and my Mum was over the moon. Then we all went to the local pub with my Dad to watch the Manchester Derby!

St. James’ Park and Old Trafford

Two major highlights of the trip for the lads, mainly from the peripheral suburbs or “barrios” around the City of Iquitos and beyond, were two trips to Newcastle United’s stadium, St.James’ Park and to the “Theatre of Dreams”, Manchester United’s world-renowned stadium Old Trafford.

WILL A TRIP LIKE THIS HAPPEN AGAIN ?

“Everyone asks me if we’re going to repeat such a memorable trip to the UK…it was a lot of work and planning, very, very satisfying for all involved but it is a project which takes a year or so to plan and execute. If someone were to come up with the funding either from here or from the UK, I’d be very happy to make it happen…I was, and am, very proud of my two regions-the North East of England and the North-Eastern corner of the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest and enabling people from either reality to enjoy them, and to see the joys and struggles of the people of both continents, is a great privilege. I believe neither culture is better or worse than the other, that life in Europe and the West has its’ fair share of strains and pressures for people who feel driven or obliged to sustain a certain standard of life. The people of the Amazon have a great deal to teach us.

As we’ve seen, Europe is being gripped by fear of not being able to live up to its’ previous affluence and people are very anxious. At the same time, as the Peruvian footballers observed, life in the UK is more ordered, with good roads, rubbish/refuse is collected promptly, schools are well-equipped and teachers get paid on time, hospitals are clean and well-maintained, with prompt service and a National Health Service which (for the moment, at least) attends people regardless of their social class or ability to pay.

The young footballers of “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista” had a great time in the UK but were glad to come home. They noticed a lack of community concern or feeling, an individualism and a desire to have control of one’s life and of things around you, that is not as present here, because life is so much governed by the heat, the rain, the rising and falling of the rivers, the risk of malaria, dengue, or another form of illness, day-to-day concerns about whether the family has enough food, or money to pay study fees, or the electric bill, etc…and I think that breeds an ability to live a lot more in the present, aware of your feelings and those of others, alert to the wiles of nature and Creation.

I know that the trip to North East England was an amazing adventure and a huge event in the lives of these young Loretanos, but at the end of the day, for all they might marvel at the orderliness of a “developed country”, I think that when they honestly weigh things up, they wouldn’t swap places with a teenager there for all the “arroz chaufa” in the world!

Trip to the UK by young footballers from Iquitos

Guest post by Joe Plumb

Bill Grimes here. If you are like me, after reading this article you want to congratulate Joe Plumb. He is setting a great example. Joe’s actions are remarkable, and he tells the story well. If you would like to learn more about Joe, click this link to;

Brit Expats Gather With Embassy Staff;

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Guest post by Joe Plumb, Honorary British Consul in Iquitos

On Wednesday 12th October the British Embassy in Lima invited British nationals living in Iquitos to an evening gathering as an opportunity for the British nationals living here to get together and at the same time, to celebrate, at the invitation of the British Ambassador, James Dauris, the naming of a new Honorary British Consul for the District of Iquitos (Region of Loreto).

In total there were twelve British citizens present at the gathering, to meet Embassy staff, Cynthia Carbajal and Claudia de Olazabal (both Pro-Consuls). A few other British nationals living here who were unable to attend sent their apologies.

The two members of the British Embassy staff came to Iquitos for three days to meet local authorities and to give some in-service training to Joe Plumb, the newly-named Honorary British Consul in Iquitos, and his wife, Gina Melissa Vela Plumb, who is to assist him with consular administrative duties.

Following a very agreeable evening gathering at the “Antica Pizzeria” in the first block of Calle Napo, at which people had the opportunity to chat, get to know each other or to renew old friendships, Cynthia and Claudia had a full morning of appointments with the President of the Board of Fiscals of Loreto, with the Head of Immigrations, with the Chief of the Tourist and Environmental Protection Police and with representatives of “IPERU”, the Peruvian Tourist Information Agency. In the afternoon, there was some time to go sight-seeing, to buy souvenirs, and a quick visit to Mick Collis at “Mad Mick’s Trading Post”. Mick has been key in maintaining relations between the British Embassy in Lima and Iquitos over the last few years whilst there has been no Consulate.

The new Honorary British Consulate for Iquitos is to operate at:

Calle San Jose 113 (second floor)

Punchana

Telf:0051-65-253364 (land-line) or 0051-997517127 (mobile)

-between the hours of Monday-Friday 9am-11am and 4:30pm-6pm.

It was generally agreed that the evening get-together was a good idea and that attempts should be made to do so with greater regularity. It was commented upon that the tone was very convivial and conversational, and that it was nice to have a chance to speak a little bit of English when we’re all immersed in Castellano for the greater part of most of days.

Thanks to the British Ambassador in Peru and to the British Embassy staff in Lima for this very pleasant initiative on their behalf. It’s good to renew the contact between Lima and ourselves in the Loreto Region again, after a few years of scanty communication, now that Iquitos has its’ own Honorary British Consulate and Honorary Consul again, and we can feel that we’re back on equal terms with Cusco, Trujillo and Arequipa.

Brit Expats Gather With Embassy Staff

Guest post by Joe Plumb, honorary British Consul in Iquitos

Bill Grimes is the publisher of this Captain’s Blog, President of Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises, manager of the Amazon Golf Course, host at the Dawn on the Amazon Cafe, the United States Embassy in Lima, American Services Department, Honorary Deputy Warden for Iquitos, among many other projects, none more important than being a friend and ally of Joe Plumb, Honorary British Consul in Iquitos, and his wonderful wife Gina. Read more about Joe and Gina’s activities by clicking this Trip To UK By Footballers From Iquitos;

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Guest post by Erica Handahan

clavero-restored

The restored historical Amazon River boat, the Clavero, operating today primarily as a research vessel for AmazonEco, and occationally for eco-tourism into Pacaya Samiria National Reserve with Dawn on the Amazon

The Clavero is the oldest boat still navigating the Amazon River. Originally named the Cahuapanas, she was built by Claparede Freres in Paris France in 1876. 

The Clavero was one of the most important naval ships of the Peruvian Amazon. She was used for military services to protect Peru’s frontiers; she explored many of the unknown tributaries, and she supplied vital communication through her mail delivery. She now navigates the Amazon in her former glory and is a tribute to naval steamboats, reminding us of the security and services they so gracefully provided

amazon-cruise-with-the-clavero

The Clavero was restored by AmazonEco to preserve the history of the Amazon, for use as a research vessel, and occationally by Dawn on the Amazon for a combination of research and tourism

The Cahuapanas

clavero-1900-amazon-river

This is the earliest known photograph of the Clavero on the Amazon River, around 1900, when she was a steamship named the Cahuapanas

The Cahuapanas, commissioned by the Peruvian government in 1876, was a vital member of Loreto’s navy for over fifty years. Throughout her years of service, the Cahuapanas navigated more rivers and tributaries in the Peruvian Amazon than any other steamship in the naval fleet.

Aboard the ship, the navy accomplished numerous firsts. The Peruvian presence in the Putumayo, for example, was first established in 1900 with the Cahuapanas. Carrying military crew and equipment, a customs house was installed at the mouth of the Putumayo. Additionally, during this mission valuable navigation information was recorded, such as hours and distances between ports and river conditions.

The Cahuapanas was used by the Peruvian military during their victorious campaign to expel the invasion of Ecuador on the Napo River in 1903. She was commissioned in 1905 by the joint Peruvian-Brazilian exploration of the upper Purus River to settle their frontiers, captained by D. Numa P. Leon.

Captain Numa of the Clavero from 1905

Between the years 1900 to 1930, the Cahuapanas was repaired countless times. It was often suggested that its upkeep was not worth the costs and that she should be retired from the fleet and sold. She even acquired the nickname Charapanas after the slow moving turtle, the Charapas. The Cahuapanas, however, remained servicing the state for years despite the various reports over the years that rendered her useless.

The Clavero

clavero-converted-from-steamship-amazon-river-boat

This photo of the Clavero was taken in the 1960s

By 1927, L.F. Morey had acquired the Cahuapanas from the state. Under his ownership, her name was changed to the Clavero in recognition of the most famous naval hero of the Peruvian Amazon, Teniente Primero Manuel Clavero.

clavero-wheel-house-restored

The restored wheel house of the Clavero

In 1938, after L.F. Morey’s death, the Cahuapanas/Clavero presumably reverted to state ownership. That same year the government placed the “ex-Cahuapanas” up for sale by the government. On November 17th, 1938, a resolution was passed authorizing the sale of the “ex-Cahuapanas” to Enrique Reátegui Alvarez for s/3,000.

clavero-cabin

One of four comfortable cabins on the Clavero

In the following decades the Clavero worked the rivers around Iquitos as a barge. She was acquired and restored by AmazonEco between 2007-2009, ensuring that the oldest boat on the Amazon will see many more years of service. We see this as the best way to pay tribute to her heroic military heritage and distinguished naval services.

clavero-dinning-room

The dining room of the Clavero restored to the Victorian era.

Today the Clavero is used for expeditions to the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve and the Yavari River, as a scientific research vessel transporting and accommodating biologists, school groups, university students, volunteers and ecotourists.

clavero-upper-deck-observation area

The observation deck of the clavero

In her various forms and uses, the Clavero has been a constant on the Peruvian Amazon. AmazonEco is dedicated to ensuring that she retain her presence and pride.

The restored amazon riverboat the Clavero

The Oldest Boat On The Amazon

By Erica Handahan

Bill Grimes here, reporting from Iquitos Peru, for Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises. If you would like to book a cruise in the Clavero into Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, then please contact me.

Erica is a historian specializing in steamships of the Amazon, and how the steamships affected the course of history. If you would like to read more from her perspective, click this link to;

Steamships of the Rubber Boom: Recovering history in the Peruvian Amazon;

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From the journal of Henri de Büren

map-amazon-river-1853

Hand drawn map by Henri de Büen on his exploration of the Amazon River in Loreto Peru, 1853

“The songs and melancholy cries of the Indians mix well with the sounds that abounded in the Amazon night. It is quite an amazing effect. During  the day, we hardly see any animals on the river banks or in the trees, and rarely do we hear any animal sounds. At night on the other hand, the cries, hoots, and singing never ceases. You hear roars of tigers, hisses of serpents, croaking of frogs, and the calls of birds. Sounds of turtles and otters entering the water, river dolphins coming up for air or thousands of fish moving just beneath the surface. The singing of so many birds,…some with very melodious voices. Add to this the lush vegetation that surrounds the river reaching into the waters below. A full moon that leaves a long trail of light on the water’s surface that is so clear and still it is like glass. This same light also filters through the tall trees to cast long shadows on the copper colored bodies of our oarsmen. Imagine all of this and you could almost be in my Amazon canoe with me.”

If you enjoy this passage you will want to read more from the explorer and naturalist, Henri de Büren’s journal, The Grand Tour; found in a Swiss attic and translated by his great great grandson, Jean François de Buren, who is Retracing The Steps Of Henri de Büren.

The Grand Tour, Loreto Peru, October 3rd, 1853

Bill Grimes here, recording and making history, from Iquitos in Loreto Peru, in this modern version of a journal, the Captain’s Blog, October 2011, 158 years later.

While reading the beautiful prose, I was struck that they hardly saw any animals in 1853. The most common complaint those of us running tours and cruises in Loreto hear is that “We expected to see more animals.”
This is Henri de Büren’s recorded route in Peru as written in his journal, from Lima to Caballococha. Parts of Henri’s route are retraced every year by modern day adventurers, including Marmelita and I; from Lima to Trujillo to Cajamarca to Chachapoyas to Moyobamba to Lamas to Tarapoto to Yurimaguas to Laguna to Nauta to Iquitos, curious that he backtracked to Pucalpa, then Pevas to Caballococha.

You will find other interesting articles about the history of Iquitos, Loreto, and the upper Amazon of Peru by clicking these links;

The Mysterious Life And Death of Dr. George Mott, in Iquitos, 1927;

Steamships of the Rubber Boom: Recovering History in the Peruvian Amazon;

Follow the Course of History on the Restored Amazon River Boat the Clavero, since 1876;

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Guest post by Belden Daniels

Buenos Dias! It is now early Saturday morning, 9/17/11, just after the sun has risen at 5:30am. Here on the Equator, the sun sets at about 6 and rises about 6 all year around, varying only about 15 minutes from Summer December 22 to Winter June 21. I am sitting outside on the deck  of the SS Eduardo VI after my first day and first night on the Amazon. All my many new Peruvian friends and acquaintances think this is really weird and fascinating — their Gringo friend typing away on his computer sitting in the bright Amazon sun on the deck right by the Wheelhouse of the ship, just above the cattle, the bananas piled high, the salt, two Chinese generators and a handful of spanking shiny Suzuki motorcycles. We are surrounded by young kids and young people gawking and talking, including “Aida” a smart and fluent teacher from Yurimaguas bringing her teenage secondary school charges on a field trip on the river to Iquitos. Now six are doing the crossword together in Spanish I think it is not the NYT by any stretch, but everyone is having fun. Who is the husband of Fatima? What is the word for Latin money – three letters? What is the symbol in Latin #s for 150? We have the C, now struggling for the “50″. Ah, yes, it’s L.

The Eduardo VI makes the SS Vietnam pacqueboat which Pamela and I took from Singapore to Sri Lanka in 1960 seem like the Queen Mary. That ship loaded on the rubber first, the tin second, the exotic Spanish flamenco dance troupe third, and us fourth. Wonderful French food, movies and wine. Not quite on the SS Eduardo. Here people get loaded first: 15 or so people in 8 very simple metal cabins with a sheet, a towel, something called a toilet and no frills, plus the 110 person mix of Peruvian Amazonians in their hammocks [including Aida and her charges] on two hammock decks with six young Europeans — 2 Brits, David now on his 3rd year traveling the world and Kevin the Scot, beautiful Marta from Poland with Martin the chef from the Czech Republic, even more beautiful Agatha [oh, the French say that so much more beautifully than the English!] and Frederick from France – all committed world travelers working, learning languages and traveling slowly around the world, in no hurry to go home.

Nothing runs on schedule here. The nonchalant sense of time makes my friend Paul Wright smile a bemused smile, and I am now totally captured by Peruvian time, never my strong suit. Paul, an expat Californian who is my traveling companion all the way down the Amazon until he decides to get off, has lived on the Amazon for 45 years and has the patience to show for it.

Paul, is 79 with as many stories as I have, and is apparently the only man alive who could arrange for me the almost insuperable task of sailing 3000 miles from boat to boat and city to city and country to country down the Amazon. He calls my shipdeck computer table perch the “longest office in the world” – from Yurimaguas to Samiria to Nauta and Iquitos and Caballo Cocha in Peru, then first to Leticia [a major drug entrepot for moving the world's best cocoa leaves from the Amazon jungle of Peru to its refinement and manufacture in Columbia, before shipment to Panama and Mexico to move across the border to the world's largest (and most hypocritical) drug market -- the US; I will have an entire Mega Report to talk about the many multiple billions of $ Drug Trade, and our totally irresponsible approach to it - it is the oxygen that permeates the air of Mexico, Panama, Peru and Columbia, but it is seldom seen or heard, only its deadly consequences],  and then Tabatinga in Columbia, and then on to Manaus, Brazil and finally Belem at the mouth of the Amazon on the Atlantic three weeks later in Brazil.

When we arrived in Yurimaguas Thursday, 9/15/11, we didn’t know if we were leaving that evening or Friday 9/16/11. Then we were told 12 noon, but young Harry [pronounced "Harrr-E"], a very handsome 27 year old Peruvian Buck who is Paul’s gopher, bet Paul a beer that it would not set sail until at least 4pm. Harry won. Sometimes we can’t find Harry, but we know where to look – he is usually in a hammock somewhere with yet another beautiful Peruvian girl [really there are no other kinds of Peruvian girls]. Paul asked Harry if it is hard to make love in a hammock, and Harry replied in Spanish “not so much.” Sex here in the Peruvian Amazon jungle is very like Bhutan — a very easy and natural part of life to be enjoyed as often as possible — as the ’60s song says, “Love the one you’re with”. Harry is also an equal opportunity bi-sexual lover, which is apparently quite common here in the Peruvian jungle.

Our wonderful collection of Amazon kids and teenagers are now permanently hanging out with us for the duration. Now sharing potato chips [Frito Lays, god help us] and the vastly better and sweeter very thin fried banana slices sold like potato chips. I much prefer these thin dried, lightly fried banana slices, and think someone could make a fortune challenging Frito Lay with them in the US.

So in a reverse of Singapore, people first, cargo second until the last banana stalks or rice bags are raced to the dock by overloaded porters in shorts and nothing else. We were held up an additional 4 hours by the special difficulty of loading 9 huge head of Brahma – Texas Longhorn cattle on board plus one especially cantankerous bull who definitely did not want to be corralled. Six cowboys were pulling and hauling as two even bigger Chinese generators were being loaded on. The bull realized that if he ran into the generators and knocked them over he could make life very difficult for the cowboys. And he did. The leader of the Chinese generator loading gang was an also very large 250 pound bald Peruvian stevedore, nude but for shorts that were trying very hard to fall off, who could have been a part of the WWW World Wide Wrestling TV circuit. I honestly was worried that he was killed when the bull pounded the generator into him; but he reacted angrily as if he had been only bruised a bit, which he certainly had been. The bull got his tail broken for his malfeasance, and he was much easier to handle once he was broken. A brutal business these pacqueboats. Both the bull and all the equally stubborn cattle were joined on the 130 foot  Eduardo VI by tons of bananas, fish, rice, salt, produce and a half dozen brand new big Japanese motorcycles headed for Iquitos.

Both Tarapoto, a young and thriving drug entrepot [our hotel owned by a mid sized drug lord] and commercial center for a vast Amazon highland agricultural Eden of rice, potatoes, bananas, grapes, coffee, oranges and hundreds of other fruits and vegetables plus, of course, the best cacao in the world for high grade chocolate [not Hershey's, people are quick to tell me] and cocoa for cocaine  – all segregated by altitude in the Amazon highlands from 1500 feet to 5000,  and Yurimaguas, the first significant up river port town for all of this produce on the Amazon — are both towns of about 120,000 souls plus 60,000 motorbikes in each and 20,000 motor rickshaws, called “”MotoKars”” in this part of the world.

Very few autos at all in the towns or on the roads, but very large trucks filled to the gills driving the dangerous, guard-rail-less two lane black top highways winding up and down and over and around the jungle mountain tops and very sheer green canyons of Virgin Amazon Jungle. On Thursday 9/15/11 we drove the 150 kilometers from Tarapoto in the Andean foothills and Amazon highlands to Yurimaguas on the Amazon lowlands in a “collectivo” bus, my 16th “collectivo” or “publico” since leaving Mexico City one month ago. This remains to date the best bus ride of my life. Cliffs as extreme as Big Sur, but much more windy and sheer, somewhat like the drive from Yosemite over the Sierra Nevadas to Nevada, yet all of this in lush, lush Virgin Amazon jungle! I got more seasick than anytime in the rough Winter Humboldt Current seas of the Galapagos – more like Antarctica, but I managed to keep it all together. I also loved once again wangling my 15th out of 16 collectivo bus rides in the shot gun seat just to the right of the driver – the seat with the best, unobstructed views of the shear cliff drops and mountain tops and rich Virgin Amazon jungle vegetation.

Two other interesting aspects of this trip: first, we had two policia check points because of the heavy drug traffic on all these mountain routes, and at about kilometer 100 we suddenly arrived at what is called the “Abraba” where the Andean foothills and Amazon highlands and Virgin Jungle abruptly ends, and the endless 3000 miles of Amazon lowlands stretching all the way to the Atlantic Ocean begins. Quite a breathtaking sight! My Polish and Czech friends, Marta and Martin, had an apparently far more terrifying ride coming through the heart of the cocoa country with the berserk driver trying to outrun the drug robbers who, if they catch you first strip you of everything, and then your life.

When we finally left Yurimaguas after 4pm, of course we immediately ran aground on a sandbar. After many failed attempts, the Eduardo IV had to come out and pull us back into the channel. Beautiful long Amazon sunset and a near full moon on the river after a usual late afternoon shower.

Our Captain was on his makeshift “bridge” if we can dignify it with such a word. It is literally right next to my cabin, and I hear the very definitely not-power steering wheel cranking its chain and cable port and starboard all night long – soothing actually. Our Eduardo VI Captain has absolutely no instruments [or glass in the two windows] on this bridge, or even a light to steer by. It is all done Mark Twain style by the feel of the constantly shifting river, with new channels and islands appearing and disappearing daily. And navigation at night only by human night vision and a few stars and the good fortune of a full moon once a month. Quite literally Mark Twain style, as electronic depth readers don’t work on the Amazon. They are too easily sheared off in a few days by a log floating by. So the method is that of the 19th Century on the Mississippi drop a line over the side and measure the meters down to the silty bottom. This is especially impressive at the low water season we have now, where the Amazon is 45 to 50 feet lower than it is in April, when it stretches two more miles in both directions into the jungle like the Nile. Sand bar groundings are a part of the journey, as we of course discovered leaving port yesterday. Then of course, as the crew jumps out there is [1] the risk of piranhas that can strip a cow to bone in a 3 minute frenzy [so I said I would last about 30 seconds, which our crowd of cross-word puzzle doing and kaffee klatching teenage friends thought was hilarious] and, more ominously [2] the carnero, which are 10” long and finger thin, with a profound capacity to wriggle into any human orifice and eat their way out. The world is full of risks, but some of these are a little different. Now another hazard: soup thick fog covering the Amazon called the Niebela.

Now as we sail down river on Saturday 9/17/11, we are stopping every 30 minutes or so at every small thatched hut village along the river if they signal with flipping tin sheets in the sun to telegraph that they have cargo to add, such as the endless bananas and more very reluctant cattle heading to their slaughter in Iquitos early Monday morning.  If it is just villagers to come to or leave the ship, they are ferried in a small dugout without the “big” ship having to slow down or go to port – only real cargo, so the priorities on the river here are quite clear. We are now at Noquira, with maybe 200 souls on a sunny day like today living in thatched huts strewn along the river bank. We are here to pick up a huge pile of bananas being placed right beside the nine long horn cattle and one bull in the corral just below me, and one very reluctant cow who keeps jumping in the water and trying to swim away. Oh, now squealing hogs pulled and pushed “walking the plank” in reverse, also headed to Iquitos slaughter.

At each stop, all the vendors come on board with fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, snacks, flashlights, hammocks, agua, and even a live parrot on a stick being sold to anyone who would have him, her or it. As is true of most parrots, this animal does not seem to be very nice. Harry just brought me  a shimbillo, a big foot long seed pod [about twice the size of a Chestnut tree pod] from the jungle with lush white fruit like cold chicken or lobster inside.

Speaking of fruits, I am eating so many fruits and vegetables and fishes I have never seen or heard before in this phenomenally bio-rich environment. There are apparently more than 5000 species of fish in the Amazon, a number I must verify. I did count 22 different species in the Yurimaguas market early yesterday [Friday 9/16/11] all of which were available either salt or fresh: [1] the charming piranha, of course, with a very scary row of extremely sharp teeth like Jaws in Goldfinger; [2] very big sardinas up to nine inches long, [3] liza, [4] palometa, [4] boyuichico, [5] pasaco, [6] llambino, [7] doricella, which look like pike, [8] acarausu, with a large blue spot on the low back near the dorsal fin, [9] toonore, a superb fish we had the night before on the balcony of an open air restaurant in Tarapoto, [10] sabalo, [11] maparate, [12] bagre, which seem to me to be a form of catfish, [13] dorado, a fish I know and again had last night, [14] lagirto blanco, [15] paco, also last night, [16] gamitano, [17] arawana, that have huge scales the size of silver dollars, and are a delicacy in the Middle East and Asia, [18] bujunqui, [19] corbeno, [20] shuyo, [21] paiche, and last but far from least [22] 30 foot long eels with bodies the thickness of a big upper arm!

A remarkable, and as usual, somewhat troubling world. So glad I am here. I love just sitting outside my cabin and watch the river flow by, and all the people and fish and boats [beyond the hundreds of dugouts are dragon boats very much like those on the Bangkok River that are the short haul boats for people and produce] from a beautiful early 5:30 sunrise to an equally beautiful 5:30 sunset, which we have just had. So now to bed before landing early tomorrow morning shortly after sunrise.

It is now sunrise, Sunday morning 9/18/11 and we are in our first truly heavy “Calcutta monsoon-like” bucket downpour. Paul says the seasons of the Amazon are wet and far wetter; we are now in mere “wet”. And, you guessed it, the 3am landing in Nauta is now more like late morning. Too many cows and pigs and bananas to load at too many stops coming down river. We will see…
Love to all, Belden Daniels

Amazon River Adventure, Yurimaguas to Iquitos on a tramp Freighter

Bill Grimes is the publisher of the Captain’s Blog. The opinions and details of guest posts may or may not express the opinions of Bill Grimes or Dawn on the Amazon E.I.R.L.

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